From Venice to Croatia and the Velebit Mountains
Spectacular landscapes, heartwarming encounters, setbacks, a visit from a peaceful bear, tough times, and joy! But above all, a sense of accomplishment, the certainty that I’m exactly where I’m supposed to be. Come on, let me take you along with me!
I’m finally leaving Venice on September 17, and to put it mildly, my butt is on fire! It was about time to get going! Even the sky seems so moved that it’s weeping. But hey, a little restraint, please! Two thunderstorms and five hours of pouring rain, that’s enough, right? Well, now my butt is REALLY on fire (the skin’s raw, ow, ow ow). Eight hours of chafing from soaked cycling shorts is more than my butt can handle this early in the trip!
I’m overjoyed to have crossed this first border! On a bike, that’s no small feat, and I’m already thinking about the next ones… which I hope will be many! As for Slovenia, I’ve decided to take the shortest route through it. I was lucky enough to cross it on foot a few years ago. Far from claiming to know it well enough already, I nevertheless have limited time. So I’ve decided to focus on the rest of the Balkans.
As soon as I enter Slovenia, the elevation gains skyrocket. But on the pavement, it’s almost easy. Once I arrive in Croatia, the scenery changes dramatically. The good weather and my joy keep me going.
Joy, did I mention? Well, right now, it’s an absolute blast! Both for me and for these little Croatians, who are crazy about mountain biking. When they see me coming on my bike, loaded down like a pack mule, with a camera on my helmet, they immediately get all excited. I film them, we have a great laugh. Thanks, kids!
The next day, I’m bursting with anticipation. In a few hours, I’ll finally reach the hiking trail I came here to find: the White Trail of the Via Dinarica. Luckily, at that moment, I still don’t know what’s in store for me… The Via Dinarica is a long-distance hiking route, known for being difficult and poorly marked. The White Trail is the most alpine and the most challenging. Difficult and poorly marked? You can say that again!
I have to force my way through the vegetation, lift my bike over numerous fallen trees, and climb rocky sections. All of this on a mountain bike that must weigh 40 kilos, including my supplies.
It’s Sunday, and I run into several hikers. At first, they all look at me in shock… What the heck is this weirdo doing here with his bike? And how on earth did he even get this far!? Well, buddy, it’s just like when you’re struggling in life: one step at a time. Most of them are armed with bear spray and confirm that there are plenty of bears in the area. No surprise there… But what I learn, and what really sends a chill down my spine, is the strict enforcement against camping. The consequence? A €2,500 fine -> nothing left but my tears -> end of the adventure.
I reached the summit after five hours of struggling, falling countless times while carrying the bike, my legs scraped raw. Shortly before that, my bike rack had broken, and I’d had to improvise a makeshift repair (in a hurry to get out of there before nightfall). Since it was blocking my rear wheel, I couldn’t even push the bike anymore. Never mind, I’m finally at the top, and the view is magnificent. So I take a deep breath and soak up some positive energy. If I still had water, I’d find a secluded spot to sleep, and to hell with the bears. But I’m starting to get seriously dehydrated.
What follows is a race against the clock; I have an hour and a half left before nightfall. I make it to the bottom just in time, completely exhausted. What happened next, I owe to an angel. I’d met Marko that morning. He was a cyclist who’d stopped at a mountain pass, and I went over to ask him where I could find water. No water, but a warm smile and a heart of gold. He offered to let me stay at his vacation home. Come on! No need! Everything’s fine! I’m going to camp out tonight (yeah, right…)! I thanked him properly and took his number anyway.
It was a good thing I did. Marko and his wife Vania did everything they could for the miserable, down-and-out adventurer that I was. They fed me, gave me a comfortable bed, and a nice hot shower. Above all, even though I felt a little awkward about their generosity, they made me feel completely at ease. It was also a chance to talk about Croatia, France, our respective lives, and life in general. Thank you, my friends, I won’t forget you anytime soon!
The next day, I found a mechanic who fixed my bike rack. I’m ready for the next leg of my adventure, yay! I’m heading back to the Via Dinarica White Trail and the Velebit Nature Reserve.
The scenery is gorgeous, and I can sometimes see the Adriatic Sea. I’ll admit, I often have to push, but at least I don’t have to carry anything.
I also treat myself to some rides, just the way I like them!
I promised myself I’d turn back if I ever found myself on a trail that isn’t really a trail, where I might end up getting beaten up again… And I also promised myself I wouldn’t sleep in the woods in areas where there are bears. Oops, oops… I won’t be keeping any of those fine resolutions.
Starting with this campout in the forest. It’s beautiful and peaceful (for now), and I’m well hidden from the park rangers. The same can’t be said for the bears, of course. But I have a good feeling about this spot, so I’m staying. Around 11 p.m., I hear a hell of a racket in the trees. The animal is big; its movements are heavy. And when I hear its growls, I have no doubt left. I record it with my camera, but the footage is poor. The most surprising thing about that moment is that I feel no fear at all. There’s a bear 20 meters away from me, and I feel safe. Recklessness? I doubt it. I’m lucky enough, despite all my flaws, to have one quality I know I can count on: intuition. Especially since it sharpens while I’m traveling. Once the bear was gone, I fell into a deep, restful sleep until morning.
A little while later, I’ll have proof that my intuition works well. This time, my internal alarm will warn me of a danger that would otherwise be undetectable. But that’s a story for next time (which will come much sooner than this first post)!
With love, from Bihać, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Mwah 😘🫶